The seven tricks to banish gray – and make salon color last longer, by royal hairdresser RICHARD WARD
The sun is out, the birds are tweeting … and the gray hairs are glowing like a halo in the bright light of spring, sending many of us sprinting to the salon.
But the monthly visits to keep our roots under control aren’t cheap – so how can we stretch the time between visits? From cold showers to mascara for our roots, celebrity hairstylist Richard Ward, whose salon clients include the Princess of Wales, shares his tips.
BEWARE OF RED
Are you toying with the idea of becoming a fiery redhead? Be warned. “Artificial reds fade much faster,” says Richard. This is because the molecules that make up the red pigment are larger than other color molecules, so it cannot penetrate as deeply and, as a result, is easier to wash out. If you go much darker than your natural shade, you can also expect fading.
For blondes, how your color lasts will depend on how the color is achieved. ‘If you’ve used bleach, you’re less likely to see your color fade as it lifts the pigment and doesn’t necessarily tone it. But over time it can discolour or dull and is more prone to damage,’ says Richard.
You need to think about how much maintenance you are prepared to accept when you get your hair colored, says Richard Ward
KEEP A LOW PROFILE
Choose a hair color technique that fits your lifestyle and budget.
“You have to think about how much maintenance you’re prepared to accept,” says Richard. ‘For example, if you have very dark hair and you go for blonde highlights, you will quickly see regrowth. If you don’t have the money or time for regular salon visits, consider a different approach.’
For low-maintenance looks, he recommends techniques like balayage, where the color fades naturally through the mid-lengths and ends. ‘It’s great for the clients as there’s no obvious regrowth – but not so good for the salon until now!’
LOSE THE FOAM
While some suggest ditching shampoo and just using conditioner on your hair, Richard recommends investing in a high-quality shampoo, explaining that ‘when it comes to shampoo, I think you get what you pay for. More expensive products tend to have fewer of the stripping ingredients, such as sodium laureth sulfate, which are bad for color’.
BUCK THE HEAT
Many people believe that doing a Wim Hof - taking a shower in cold water – is the best way to make the hair color last. Cold water keeps the hair bands closed and therefore stops the color from fading prematurely. If chills in a cold shower don’t appeal, try lukewarm water. The water quality also has a big influence on our hair. Some tap water contains iron, rust, copper and even lead, which build up on our hair.
While you could buy bottles of distilled, purified, or decalcified water (which doesn’t contain any of the contaminants you’d find in tap water), buying a water filter—such as a Brita for your shower—can be an easier option.
‘Water filters that remove calcium, chlorine and other minerals that can discolour hair are a really good idea,’ says Richard.
STYLE WITH CARE
“Wherever you can, avoid using heat styling,” says Richard. ‘If you have frizzy or curly hair, put heat on it, but use a heat protection spray and the lowest heat you can. If you can get away with using styling that doesn’t involve tools, such as heatless curlers – which you sleep in – it will help your color last longer.’
He also recommends avoiding using too much product.
“You’re better off with a volumizing spray that you use right at the roots, rather than something like a mousse that goes through the mid-lengths and ends and can dull the hair,” he says. ‘And with all products, less is more.’
HEAD TO SHADOW
Whether it’s sun that lightens darker shades, chlorine that can turn blonde hair green, or salt water that can dry and discolor hair, vacations can compromise hair color.
“If you’re out in the sun, use a UV protection spray and a hat,” says Richard. “And if you’re a regular swimmer, use a protective treatment such as Philip Kingsley’s swimming cap and a swim cap. I can always tell when people swim regularly – chlorine is a nightmare for hair.’
MAGIC TREES
“Color sticks, root touch-up products, pens and sprays can help you keep track of root growth between visits,” says Richard. ‘And color glosses revive darker tones, while, if the hair turns brassy, a toner is a good solution to see you through.’
As told to Claire Coleman